Thursday, May 2, 2013

The First Cut of Fabric is the Hardest

After years of a lot of talk, I finally decided to do something about my interest in clothes -- I actually started sewing.

I've been volunteering at a sewing studio in DC since October of last year and every time I go, I am just thrilled to be around people interested in being creative and productive.  It is really remarkable to think that you start with a piece of fabric, and create something -- anything really.  I love the feeling it gives you and I am determined to make (at least some) clothing.

So after literally three hours at the fabric store with Mami and Alina, we walked out with a pattern, all the related fabric and notions.  I was so anxious to get started!

Here's the pattern we decided to go with.


It is a fairly straight forward dress, but it has pockets and is lined, and given that the skirt is pencil, it needs to be more precise than a full skirt -- something I am actually looking forward to working on rather than it looking right, but being sewn incorrectly, as can happen when you add volume.

So I took the fabric home, washed it and was ready to go for the Working with Patterns class at Bits of Thread, which gave me the confidence to get started.

There were a few hiccups, aka the pattern listed too small an amount of fabric, I had to go buy more fabric which I then forgot to wash (and more importantly pre-shrink) but was too hasty to stop working so am just never going to be able to dry the damn dress...but at this stage, all the fabric is cut and I am ready to start sewing!

 Start here.  And remember to just keep breathing...


Lay all the pieces out according to the directions.  Of course this isn't as "simple" as it sounds.  You have to ensure you are cutting on the correct size line, that you marked/noted where all the dart or other indicators are, that the grain line is straight--which is important because it affects the way your fabric (and therefore garment) can stretch, that things are pinned (or not) to your satisfaction.  It's not difficult by any means, but it is important to remember all these small items (and to know how to read them -- thank you Working with Patterns class!)


Like I said, the first cut is the hardest (at least it was for me), so I was too busy just trying to stay calm to remember to take a photo.  But here are both top pieces and one of the skirt pieces pinned to the folded fabric.  (Of note, I was also so hasty to get started that I actually laid out of the fabric wrong sides together, which is not what the pattern calls for.  Not good.  But I asked the instructor to check, and all was fine so long as I marked on the wrong side of the fabric with the chalk.  Whoops.


Here are all the external pieces cut out.


Here's a close up which shows you all the little markings/details to watch out for.  There are various ways in which to mark them, but I wanted to use tailor tacks, as it is the most traditional way.

So you find some thread that is colorful/different than your fabric so you can see it...


Then you sew through the markings you need to remember, leaving four loops.


Once they are all done, you take scissors and cut the tops of the loops.


Here is what is looks like with all of the loops cut.  Note: I used a good amount of thread for each loop on the tailor tack so that the next step would be easier.


Then you carefully/slowly start to pull apart the fabric, just enough so that you can stick some scissors in there and cut the thread in between the folded fabric.  That way, thread remains on both sides once it is unfolded.


After the outer pieces were ready to go, I cut all the lining and contrast pieces so that once I started sewing, I wouldn't have to stop to cut fabric again.


And that's where I am at this stage!

Given that the dress is red, white and blue, I decided to try and finish this dress by the Fourth of July so I can wear it then.  Always good to have a deadline!  In the meantime, I'll be working on fixing or reconstructing existing clothing items, but this is will be the first piece of clothing I'll have ever made from scratch!  Exciting!!




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